Sunday, October 21, 2007
Big Bend National Park - arrived at last
We left Yellowstone and headed north into Montana to visit Little Bighorn Battlefield, then followed the Yellowstone River to Makoshika State Park to see the fossils. We continued east into North Dakota to go through the Theodore Roosevelt National Park. We spent a night in the Park and a morning hike into the badlands took us through some interesting scenery and we fortuned upon two Golded Eagles doing aerial acrobatics close enough that field glasses were not necessary to identify then. We continued south into South Dakota and stayed several days at Ellsworth AFB from where we took side trips into the South Dakota Badlands before continuing further south into Nebraska where we got to see the old Oregon Trail. We toured a museum at the Scotts Bluff National Monument and I can honestly say I learned more about the Oregon Trail and westward expension than I ever knew before. (History was not one of my greatest interests in my youth) From Scotts Bluff it was south into Colorado Springs where we set up camp in Spook and Brenda McFillin's backyard RV lot. They have electrical hook-ups for their many Rving friends. At one point there were two RVs parked in their back yard.
Colorado Springs was our jumping off point to catch military hops back East. Getting hops this time was not real easy but we did get out on a C-130 to Gulfport Mississippi where we rented a car to drive to Birmingham. We visited Jayme, Chris and Braelyn - grand kids are great!!!! Ample babysitting opportunities were appreciated. We managed a flight from nearby Maxwell AFB to Andrews AFB where again we rented a car and drove to Denton, MD to spend time with Bill, Ann, Marisa and Sammy. Took the kids to a corn maze and Octoberfest play area on a nearby farm. We painted pumpkins, ran through the maze, climbed on hay bale mountains, took hay rides, and tired ourselves well. We drove from there to PA to spend a little time with Mom and Dad where they repeadedly beat us at brutal games of dominoes. We also visited Bill and Margurite Mengel where I got a volume of geneology data. We made an early morniging stop at the Leesport Farmers Market then headed down to Andrews AFB where after a two day delay we caught a direct flight to Colorado Springs.
We said our goodbys to the McFillins and headed south to Big Bend National Park. We spent several nites in Palo Duro Canyon State Park,
enjoyed the scenery then made our way south through Lubbock where I went to pilot training in 1970. Then to Midland and finally into Big Bend.
We will be at the Visitor Information Center at Persimmon Gap. The park is putting us through two weeks of training before we actually start working. Work consists of three days a week keeping the Visitor Center manned. Only one of us have to be there at a time. Then we have to spend an additional 8 hours doing something else. Hiking the 200 miles of trails, canoeing the 250 miles of Rio Grande, helping botanists and biologists, checking out campsites, or doing research assistance work are all acceptable additional activities--and they call this work?
The training is awesome. There are some administrative functions but we have been briefed on each of the districts in the park, have taken two short hikes to historical sites,
were briefed by a cactus expert on the cacti of the Chihuahuan desert, took one 12 mile hike 
up into the Chisos Mountains where classmate blew bubbles thousands of feet above the valley floor to see the scenery from the South Rim and then took a two day canoeing trip down the Rio Grand River through the Santa Elena Canyon.
This week we will do a field trip to aquaint us with the air quality issues and activities in the park, we will do a geology, archeology, and paleonotology field trip, as well a couple more trips to historical sites. We will spend a bit more time learning how to issue fishing permits, and back country permits and then we will be ready to start working on Sunday the 28th of October.
Colorado Springs was our jumping off point to catch military hops back East. Getting hops this time was not real easy but we did get out on a C-130 to Gulfport Mississippi where we rented a car to drive to Birmingham. We visited Jayme, Chris and Braelyn - grand kids are great!!!! Ample babysitting opportunities were appreciated. We managed a flight from nearby Maxwell AFB to Andrews AFB where again we rented a car and drove to Denton, MD to spend time with Bill, Ann, Marisa and Sammy. Took the kids to a corn maze and Octoberfest play area on a nearby farm. We painted pumpkins, ran through the maze, climbed on hay bale mountains, took hay rides, and tired ourselves well. We drove from there to PA to spend a little time with Mom and Dad where they repeadedly beat us at brutal games of dominoes. We also visited Bill and Margurite Mengel where I got a volume of geneology data. We made an early morniging stop at the Leesport Farmers Market then headed down to Andrews AFB where after a two day delay we caught a direct flight to Colorado Springs.
We said our goodbys to the McFillins and headed south to Big Bend National Park. We spent several nites in Palo Duro Canyon State Park,
enjoyed the scenery then made our way south through Lubbock where I went to pilot training in 1970. Then to Midland and finally into Big Bend.
We will be at the Visitor Information Center at Persimmon Gap. The park is putting us through two weeks of training before we actually start working. Work consists of three days a week keeping the Visitor Center manned. Only one of us have to be there at a time. Then we have to spend an additional 8 hours doing something else. Hiking the 200 miles of trails, canoeing the 250 miles of Rio Grande, helping botanists and biologists, checking out campsites, or doing research assistance work are all acceptable additional activities--and they call this work?
The training is awesome. There are some administrative functions but we have been briefed on each of the districts in the park, have taken two short hikes to historical sites,
were briefed by a cactus expert on the cacti of the Chihuahuan desert, took one 12 mile hike 
up into the Chisos Mountains where classmate blew bubbles thousands of feet above the valley floor to see the scenery from the South Rim and then took a two day canoeing trip down the Rio Grand River through the Santa Elena Canyon.
This week we will do a field trip to aquaint us with the air quality issues and activities in the park, we will do a geology, archeology, and paleonotology field trip, as well a couple more trips to historical sites. We will spend a bit more time learning how to issue fishing permits, and back country permits and then we will be ready to start working on Sunday the 28th of October.
Monday, September 03, 2007
Our summer at Yellowstone comes to an end
It is time to depart Yellowstone National Park and words simply cannot convey our thoughts or feelings. Though we hate to leave this magnificent place, we are anxious to get back East to visit our families. We are also excited about being able to spend some quality time in Big Bend National Park in Texas. All that said we are both quick to state that this has perhaps been one of the best if not the best summer of our lives. We have truly been touched by the Spirit of Yellowstone. Since the last posting we have experienced some great events. We’ve had friends from the past visit: Avery’s from Alabama, Hubbards from Texas, and Cramers form Florida. We managed to spend a little but not enough with each of these visitors. We joined Avery’s, Tom and Karen, at the Lake Hotel where we listened to the string quartet (more on them later) and discussed RVing. 
Tom is a retired Navy Captain who thinks that Navy plays better golf than Air Force. I’ll set him straight on that some day. Ed Hubbard was my boss 30+ years ago in Vietnam. We keep in contact with them and consider them our mentors. Seems we have developed a pattern of following in their footsteps. They talked us into buying a big boat and taking off and now they have gotten us into RVing. We spent time driving around the park, looking at wildlife, trying to find erupting geysers, all and all just visited. Dave and Kathy Cramer served with me at Andrews AFB back in the 80s. We just stumbled on each other at an RV Rally in Charlotte NC about a year ago. We spent time running around the park, saw wolves, moose, geysers, climbed Mt Washburn, and saw more that the park had to offer. There is something special about running into friends when out traveling like this.
Highlights of the last few weeks here, in addition to getting together with friends, include a great hike from Beckler Ranger Station to Great Fountain Trail head near Old Faithful, Climbing Mount Washburn, seeing wolves and moose, and catching some great fish.
Two of the musicians in the string quartet at Lake Village are also skilled backcountry campers. I met Leanne through her mother who we were with on a trip into Mexico last winter. Leanne is the viola player and Renee, the cellist, were planning their final trip of the season and I was most fortunate to be able to team up with them for the trek along the Beckler River. They departed a day earlier and hiked a two-day 20 mile out and back to see some falls and met me at a campsite near Beckler Medows. They had seen two bear during their two days out and I was hoping that we might see more before we finished our hike. We were going an additional 30 miles in four more days through what some consider some of the most beautiful hiking in Yellowstone National Park. We had an awesome experience. Despite the almost daily rain we kept smiling as we passed one magnificent waterfall after another. Our bushwhacking adventure up to Ouzel Falls was special and in addition to experiencing one of the tallest falls in the park, we got a good close up of Water Ouzels, or Western Dippers that the falls are named for.
A few minutes of fishing near the second night’s campsite got me my native cutthroat trout but rain through the night made for less than ideal camping. The next day we pressed on to a campsite along a massive meadow. In route we took a side hike to “Mister Bubbles” a magnificent hot pool that provides an awesome opportunity to relax and recharge. One of the thermal features we passed is perhaps the most beautiful I have seen in the park.
We soaked in the pool for about an hour before continuing on toward out last campsite. After diner we watched over the meadow in hopes of sighting wildlife of any kind. Our sightings were limited to birds and chipmunks. We completed out backpacking adventure by crossing the Continental Divide three times and arrived at Lone Star Geyser just after an eruption.
Sandi met us there and I left the girls who remained behind for one more night of sleeping on the ground at a campsite that has a history of bear activity. This was certainly my best and most enjoyable backpacking trip in the park. I am certain the great company had a lot to do with it.
I recovered for a few days and then Sandi and I joined the Cramers for another hike to the top of Washburn Mountain. Three miles of uphill from the trail head at Dunraven Pass at about 8600’ to the Observation Platform at the top of the mountain is 10,240’. It is no wonder we saw Mountain Sheep on the way up and down. We also saw blue grouse and I saw my first rosy finch.
Sandi continued to put one foot in front of the other and made the six-mile hike up and down seem much more moderate than the strenuous rating the park service gives to this hike.
The total six mile hike was most arduous but seeing the wildlife on the mountain as well as the wolves, elk, and moose we saw during the rest of the day made for an unbelievable outing.
With the end of our “tour of duty” approaching we felt we had seen or done everything on our list except for hearing elk bugle and I really wanted to join the 20-20 club by catching a 20” or longer fish on a #20 fly.
With only a few days off before we leave I went fishing nearly every day. Each day seemed more unbelievable than the previous. I was regularly catching fish between 14’ and 21” but small files were not producing. Virtually all fish were caught on #16 nymphs which is impressive but I did want to get one on a really small hook. On my next-to-last day off I hit the Madison River again and I fished hard but the fish were anything but cooperative. In desperation I switched from pattern to pattern and finally decided to try a small #20 Zug Bug, a nymph tied with peacock heril and silver floss. A 16 inch Madison brown trout took my third cast but I lost him by trying to horse him in – not the thing to do with a fish on a #20 hook. Many casts later I hooked and after about a 15 – 20 minute fight, finally landed him. A passing photographer saw the ensuing battle and stopped to take some photos. The fish measured 22” was probably 5 – 7 pounds and is certainly a fish of a lifetime for me.
Welcome to the 20-20 club.
I left the fishing hole and heard a bugling elk not far from where our RV was parked. I convinced Sandi to go for a ride and we ended up watching a massive 7X6 bull elk standing in the Madison River raise his head and snort and bugle to nearby cows. During the next two days at the visitor center we saw this same bull with his developing harem. On my last day at “work” he became belligerent and very protective of his cows.
He charged several times toward park visitors and more than just a few folks gained a healthy respect for the need to keep a safe distance from these magnificent animals—especially when it is the breeding season or the rut.
We’re packed and nearly ready to leave. Tomorrow we’ll head north then east to see more of Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska and then into Colorado where we will fly back to family. Life is good.
Tom is a retired Navy Captain who thinks that Navy plays better golf than Air Force. I’ll set him straight on that some day. Ed Hubbard was my boss 30+ years ago in Vietnam. We keep in contact with them and consider them our mentors. Seems we have developed a pattern of following in their footsteps. They talked us into buying a big boat and taking off and now they have gotten us into RVing. We spent time driving around the park, looking at wildlife, trying to find erupting geysers, all and all just visited. Dave and Kathy Cramer served with me at Andrews AFB back in the 80s. We just stumbled on each other at an RV Rally in Charlotte NC about a year ago. We spent time running around the park, saw wolves, moose, geysers, climbed Mt Washburn, and saw more that the park had to offer. There is something special about running into friends when out traveling like this.
Highlights of the last few weeks here, in addition to getting together with friends, include a great hike from Beckler Ranger Station to Great Fountain Trail head near Old Faithful, Climbing Mount Washburn, seeing wolves and moose, and catching some great fish.
Two of the musicians in the string quartet at Lake Village are also skilled backcountry campers. I met Leanne through her mother who we were with on a trip into Mexico last winter. Leanne is the viola player and Renee, the cellist, were planning their final trip of the season and I was most fortunate to be able to team up with them for the trek along the Beckler River. They departed a day earlier and hiked a two-day 20 mile out and back to see some falls and met me at a campsite near Beckler Medows. They had seen two bear during their two days out and I was hoping that we might see more before we finished our hike. We were going an additional 30 miles in four more days through what some consider some of the most beautiful hiking in Yellowstone National Park. We had an awesome experience. Despite the almost daily rain we kept smiling as we passed one magnificent waterfall after another. Our bushwhacking adventure up to Ouzel Falls was special and in addition to experiencing one of the tallest falls in the park, we got a good close up of Water Ouzels, or Western Dippers that the falls are named for.
A few minutes of fishing near the second night’s campsite got me my native cutthroat trout but rain through the night made for less than ideal camping. The next day we pressed on to a campsite along a massive meadow. In route we took a side hike to “Mister Bubbles” a magnificent hot pool that provides an awesome opportunity to relax and recharge. One of the thermal features we passed is perhaps the most beautiful I have seen in the park.
We soaked in the pool for about an hour before continuing on toward out last campsite. After diner we watched over the meadow in hopes of sighting wildlife of any kind. Our sightings were limited to birds and chipmunks. We completed out backpacking adventure by crossing the Continental Divide three times and arrived at Lone Star Geyser just after an eruption.
Sandi met us there and I left the girls who remained behind for one more night of sleeping on the ground at a campsite that has a history of bear activity. This was certainly my best and most enjoyable backpacking trip in the park. I am certain the great company had a lot to do with it.
I recovered for a few days and then Sandi and I joined the Cramers for another hike to the top of Washburn Mountain. Three miles of uphill from the trail head at Dunraven Pass at about 8600’ to the Observation Platform at the top of the mountain is 10,240’. It is no wonder we saw Mountain Sheep on the way up and down. We also saw blue grouse and I saw my first rosy finch.
Sandi continued to put one foot in front of the other and made the six-mile hike up and down seem much more moderate than the strenuous rating the park service gives to this hike.
The total six mile hike was most arduous but seeing the wildlife on the mountain as well as the wolves, elk, and moose we saw during the rest of the day made for an unbelievable outing.
With the end of our “tour of duty” approaching we felt we had seen or done everything on our list except for hearing elk bugle and I really wanted to join the 20-20 club by catching a 20” or longer fish on a #20 fly.
With only a few days off before we leave I went fishing nearly every day. Each day seemed more unbelievable than the previous. I was regularly catching fish between 14’ and 21” but small files were not producing. Virtually all fish were caught on #16 nymphs which is impressive but I did want to get one on a really small hook. On my next-to-last day off I hit the Madison River again and I fished hard but the fish were anything but cooperative. In desperation I switched from pattern to pattern and finally decided to try a small #20 Zug Bug, a nymph tied with peacock heril and silver floss. A 16 inch Madison brown trout took my third cast but I lost him by trying to horse him in – not the thing to do with a fish on a #20 hook. Many casts later I hooked and after about a 15 – 20 minute fight, finally landed him. A passing photographer saw the ensuing battle and stopped to take some photos. The fish measured 22” was probably 5 – 7 pounds and is certainly a fish of a lifetime for me.
Welcome to the 20-20 club.
I left the fishing hole and heard a bugling elk not far from where our RV was parked. I convinced Sandi to go for a ride and we ended up watching a massive 7X6 bull elk standing in the Madison River raise his head and snort and bugle to nearby cows. During the next two days at the visitor center we saw this same bull with his developing harem. On my last day at “work” he became belligerent and very protective of his cows.
He charged several times toward park visitors and more than just a few folks gained a healthy respect for the need to keep a safe distance from these magnificent animals—especially when it is the breeding season or the rut.
We’re packed and nearly ready to leave. Tomorrow we’ll head north then east to see more of Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska and then into Colorado where we will fly back to family. Life is good.
Saturday, August 11, 2007
One Grand Eruption
Our tour of Yellowstone is very quickly coming to an end. We will work though the end of the Labor Day weekend. We have but 12 days to work until then. Our summer here has been more than we could have ever anticipated. The scenery, geologic features, wildlife, hiking, backpacking and fishing have been awesome. During the course of our stay here we have been sensually saturated and I feel as if I am in a constant euphoric state.
About midway through the summer we made a list of things we wanted to be sure to see or do before departing in September. Seeing as many of the significant geysers erupt as possible was high on the list. There are 14,000 thermal features in Yellowstone. I’m not sure how many of them are geysers but just in the Upper Geyser Basin near Old Faithful there are approximately 145 geysers. The eruptions of five of them can be predicted with relative accuracy to +/- 2 hours. Some erupt as frequently as every 90 minutes—others only every few days. Steamboat Geyser, the worlds largest last erupted in 2005 and some have not erupted since the early 1900s.
One predictable geyser that erupts approximately every 8-9 hours is Grand Geyser located about ½ mile from Old Faithful. Grand erupts in a spectacular display of steamy and watery fireworks. Yesterday afternoon the forecast eruption window was between 4:20 pm and 8:20 pm. We arrived there and found a seat with the wind and sun to our backs. A crowd had already formed and visitors from a sampling of states and countries waited patiently and watched the almost choreographed sequence of events unfold. We were fortunate to find ourselves in the midst of informative “Geyser Gazers” and rangers who were most willing to provide commentary. Geyser Gazers are a group of hobbyists who have turned analysis of the eruption sequence of each geyser into an intricate data collection process. The geyser gazers around us were from as far away as Virginia and as close as Wyoming and Idaho. Each with personal hand held radios set to channel 4/5 they keep listeners, including the park service, informed of geyser activities.
Like many geysers, Grand Geyser is connected to other geysers. The observed activity at one is often an indicator of impending activity at another. Grand is connected to Turban Geyser and Vent Geysers. As the window to eruption of Grand approaches, Turban begins a regular series of eruptions every 20 minutes. The Grand Geyser pool fills and drains with each eruption of Turban. Turban’s eruption appears like little more than some serious boiling. During its most violent eruptions, only it shoots scalding hot water about three feet into the air. With each eruption of Turban the Geyser Gazers wait with baited breath, hoping that the water level in the Grand Geyser Pool remains full. The drop in the pool’s level at the end of Turban’s eruption signals the beginning of another 20 minute wait for the next eruption. Grand’s eruption always coincides with a Turban eruption.
Over and over again at 20 minute intervals we watched as the pool level dropped exposing island like ridges of geyserite that are exposed anytime the pool is not completely full. After approximately 6 or 7 of these 20 minute cycles we saw the change. The pool dropped slightly and then continued to rise—ever so slowly submerging the geyserite ridges. Someone claimed to have seen waves in the pool – an indication that an eruption was eminent. The most experienced Geyser Gazer in the crowd picked up her radio and signaled to geyser gazers across the entire Upper Basin that there were waves in Grand. Then the pool began to boil followed by an explosive rocketing of hot water and steam perhaps 150 feet into the air.
The applause of the crowd showed the approval with natures geologic show which continued for 9 minutes during which Turban continued its boiling and Vent coincidentally shot its stream of water skyward adding to the spectacle. The early evening sun shining through the condensing steam added a beautiful rainbow to the spectacle.
The geyser gazers hopped for an early halt to the breathtaking display. The early halt in the action seems to allow the underground chamber to rearm for a second and more explosive eruption. We were in luck and the break came followed shortly there after by the second and larger eruption. In years past this cycle would continue for as many as 14 times. Now days one eruption is the norm with two or three being special events.
The show ended with Grand and Turban becoming silent. Vent would continue for quite some time. We applauded again as if to say thanks to Mother Earth for the entertainment and all wondered off in different directions. On our way out of the basin we were rewarded with a timely eruption of Old Faithful. For many, Old Faithful is the only geyser activity they will witness during their stay at Yellowstone. Old Faithful is a wonder but it truly pales in comparison to Grand, Lone Star, Great Fountain, or many others.
I would like to continue with more on our visit to Boiling River, the Roosevelt Arch at Mammoth or the recent significant wildlife sightings but I’ll save that for later.
Life sure is good!
About midway through the summer we made a list of things we wanted to be sure to see or do before departing in September. Seeing as many of the significant geysers erupt as possible was high on the list. There are 14,000 thermal features in Yellowstone. I’m not sure how many of them are geysers but just in the Upper Geyser Basin near Old Faithful there are approximately 145 geysers. The eruptions of five of them can be predicted with relative accuracy to +/- 2 hours. Some erupt as frequently as every 90 minutes—others only every few days. Steamboat Geyser, the worlds largest last erupted in 2005 and some have not erupted since the early 1900s.
One predictable geyser that erupts approximately every 8-9 hours is Grand Geyser located about ½ mile from Old Faithful. Grand erupts in a spectacular display of steamy and watery fireworks. Yesterday afternoon the forecast eruption window was between 4:20 pm and 8:20 pm. We arrived there and found a seat with the wind and sun to our backs. A crowd had already formed and visitors from a sampling of states and countries waited patiently and watched the almost choreographed sequence of events unfold. We were fortunate to find ourselves in the midst of informative “Geyser Gazers” and rangers who were most willing to provide commentary. Geyser Gazers are a group of hobbyists who have turned analysis of the eruption sequence of each geyser into an intricate data collection process. The geyser gazers around us were from as far away as Virginia and as close as Wyoming and Idaho. Each with personal hand held radios set to channel 4/5 they keep listeners, including the park service, informed of geyser activities.
Like many geysers, Grand Geyser is connected to other geysers. The observed activity at one is often an indicator of impending activity at another. Grand is connected to Turban Geyser and Vent Geysers. As the window to eruption of Grand approaches, Turban begins a regular series of eruptions every 20 minutes. The Grand Geyser pool fills and drains with each eruption of Turban. Turban’s eruption appears like little more than some serious boiling. During its most violent eruptions, only it shoots scalding hot water about three feet into the air. With each eruption of Turban the Geyser Gazers wait with baited breath, hoping that the water level in the Grand Geyser Pool remains full. The drop in the pool’s level at the end of Turban’s eruption signals the beginning of another 20 minute wait for the next eruption. Grand’s eruption always coincides with a Turban eruption.
Over and over again at 20 minute intervals we watched as the pool level dropped exposing island like ridges of geyserite that are exposed anytime the pool is not completely full. After approximately 6 or 7 of these 20 minute cycles we saw the change. The pool dropped slightly and then continued to rise—ever so slowly submerging the geyserite ridges. Someone claimed to have seen waves in the pool – an indication that an eruption was eminent. The most experienced Geyser Gazer in the crowd picked up her radio and signaled to geyser gazers across the entire Upper Basin that there were waves in Grand. Then the pool began to boil followed by an explosive rocketing of hot water and steam perhaps 150 feet into the air.
The applause of the crowd showed the approval with natures geologic show which continued for 9 minutes during which Turban continued its boiling and Vent coincidentally shot its stream of water skyward adding to the spectacle. The early evening sun shining through the condensing steam added a beautiful rainbow to the spectacle.
The geyser gazers hopped for an early halt to the breathtaking display. The early halt in the action seems to allow the underground chamber to rearm for a second and more explosive eruption. We were in luck and the break came followed shortly there after by the second and larger eruption. In years past this cycle would continue for as many as 14 times. Now days one eruption is the norm with two or three being special events.
The show ended with Grand and Turban becoming silent. Vent would continue for quite some time. We applauded again as if to say thanks to Mother Earth for the entertainment and all wondered off in different directions. On our way out of the basin we were rewarded with a timely eruption of Old Faithful. For many, Old Faithful is the only geyser activity they will witness during their stay at Yellowstone. Old Faithful is a wonder but it truly pales in comparison to Grand, Lone Star, Great Fountain, or many others.
I would like to continue with more on our visit to Boiling River, the Roosevelt Arch at Mammoth or the recent significant wildlife sightings but I’ll save that for later.
Life sure is good!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
