California to Yellowstone

California is behind us.
After many months of traversing back and forth and up and down and experiencing some great wonders of this state and our nation we have finally put California behind us. We’ll be hard pressed to ever forget the eclectic landscapes – deserts, sea shores, mountains, and massive agricultural areas. After leaving Monterey with its Pebble Beach Golf area, and the aquarium, we headed back north of San Francisco to Petaluma where the U.S. Coast Guard maintains a training center. While there we ventured to Point Reys National seashore to see elephant seals, Tule elk, black-tail deer (I think), and the beginning spring wildflower bloom. The rocky cliffs, miles of beach, and awesome scenic overviews made for a great day trip. On another day we ventured into the Sonoma Valley for some wine tasting. We took a tour that allowed us to experience the vineyards, the processing area, and then gave us a chance to taste several of their estate wines. They were good but I am still happy with Charles Shaw, a.k.a. Two-buck Chuck that we get at the Trader Joes stores. Before departing the USCG base we were told not to miss the Friday noon meal at the chow hall. Coast Guard cooks train at this base and every Friday there is a grand seafood buffet. For $4 and some change we dined on smoked and fresh salmon, assorted fried clams, shrimp, steamed mussels, and all the fixings. Believe you me, the Coast Guard eats well!

We casino hopped for a couple nights where we stayed at casinos that welcome RVers. We attempted to show our gratification by eating diner in the casinos and losing a few dollars at the gaming tables and in the slots but they apparently did not want our cash. After two nights we were still in the winner’s circle, and well fed as well.

Between casinos we passed through the Humboldt Redwood State Park and were in awe with the largest remaining stands of old-growth redwood trees. We hiked several trails and were just overcome with the majesty of these enormous trees and the spectacle of the lush ferns and mosses that flourish in this very wet and verdant ecosystem. We crossed the Klamath River several times and stopped for some Native American smoked salmon--great snack! The Klamath has been a river of controversy with the agricultural community taking too much water from the river leaving too little flow to support the salmon migration.

Humboldt Redwood State Park was not enough for us so we spent a few more days looking at the redwood and beaches of Redwood National Park. There we got to see the Roosevelt elk, as well as more majestic redwoods. We stayed in Smith River National Recreation Area and took a scenic drive on a one-lane gravel road along the river and through more old growth redwoods, and Douglas fir. Sure was impressive.

We left the National Forest campground in the recreation area and followed Rt 199 to Oregon where we stopped for a few days Near Grants Pass. A day after we drove the scenic mountain road, it was closed by a rock-slide. We camped at Valley of the Rogue River State Park—right along the Rogue River, noted for its white-water rafting and world class salmon and trout fishing. We’re between salmon and steelhead runs so I did not bother to wet a line, but maybe we can come through here another more appropriate time. With the recent rains and the winter run-off, all the rivers we see are flowing at capacity. We’re camped relatively close to Crater Lake so we took a day to drive into the National Park. As we climbed higher, we left the balmy 50+ degree temperature along the river and watched as the temperature dropped as we climbed up the mountain—finally reaching 23 degrees. Passing through a vast evergreen forest, we started seeing a dusting of snow that soon became a thick white blanket. At the top of the caldera near the visitor center the road-cuts made by the huge snow blowers were over 8 feet high on both sides of the road. This has not been a good year for snow fall. They are about 100 inches behind their normal 460” for the season.

From the ROGUE River area we headed for the coast. Not the best time to be on the Oregon coast with high seas, winds, daily rain, and cool temperatures. The coast is beautiful with great waves crashing onto the beach. Some beaches are great expanses of sand—others are rocky outcroppings. On a walk down to the waterline at near low-tide on Seal Beach we got to play in the tidal pools. No effort is needed to see Dozens of starfish in various shades of blue, orange and grey; sea anemones; sea cucumbers, and other squirting creatures. If all that was not enough, a flock of harlequin ducks perched nearby on some rocks and showed off their colors. Although I did not get to see any of the shorebirds that I was hoping to see, we were certainly not disappointed with what we did get to see.

We left the coast for the Columbia River Gorge where we took a quick tour of the Bonneville Dam and the fish hatchery. We also stopped at several exceptional waterfalls. Oregon has been rainy every day which, with the wind and cool temperatures, makes it a bit uncomfortable. We may just have to add Oregon-in-good-weather to our list of places we still want to visit.

We finally arrived at McChord Air Force Base in Tacoma, WA. Here we parked the RV and flew back East for a much needed visit with family and an essential grandkid fix. Seems all were well and growing just getting older and we realized how much we miss being around family.

After returning to McChord we started a circumvention of the Olympic Peninsula. With Mt Rainier in the rearview mirror we headed north. After passing through some awesome countryside with the Hood Canal on our right and verdant mountains disappearing into the clouds on the left we passed over beckoning salmon streams to arrive in Chimacum (near Port Townsend) Washington on the Strait of Juan de Fuega. Knowing good seafood would be scarce in a matter of weeks when we get to Yellowstone, we began a seafood binge with some great fresh (according to the waitress, “just 200 yards away”) oysters at a Mom-and-Pop family restaurant. Then a stop at a shellfish farm for some clams for steaming, and some smoked and shucked oysters for stew later on. In Port Townsend we took a self guided tour past dozens of beautiful Victorian homes -- all circa. 1860s – and stumbled on a sign –“fresh crabs, clams, oysters, seafood”. With a big Dungeness crab under our arm we headed home for what was one of several special seafood dinners.

Northwest birding was somewhat challenging. I managed to get a few new gulls as well as some alcids. New birds or not, the seascapes have been spectacular. We have stopped just short of the most Northwest point in the continental US to visit Mount Olympus, take a ferry to Victoria, B.C., and do some fascinating tidal pool investigating. We learned to live with the persistent rain and really enjoyed the Pacific Northwest. Completing our trip around the Olympic Peninsula, although without reaching our fill of lush fern –filled rain forests, magnificent coastlines, spectacular views of Mount Olympus, and fresh seafood feasts, we pointed our rig eastward and headed to Yellowstone National Park.

Our first week was one of training—exceptional training. World-known geologists covered the history of the landscape and the details of current seismic activity. Biologists gave details of bear, wolf, bison, and elk activity; ecologists verified weather, plant, and animal interaction and dependence; botanists took us on field trips to identify flowers. We have a few days set aside to re-familiarize ourselves with routine procedures, develop our programs, and prepare for another great year in, what I think, is America’s Wonderland.