Friday, June 12, 2009

Day off in Yellowstone National park

Sandi and I have the same days off so we make it a point to visit some place in the park each week. Yesterday we headed up to Mammoth to visit the Visitor Information Center there and hopefully to hike one of the trails to the old petrefied forest. Although we ran out of time and did not get to do the hike, we had a rather impressive day. Enroute to Mammoth a cinnamon black bear crossed the road and we were able to watch it for quite some time. We left the park through the Roosevelt Arch near Gardner Montana for lunch and had a great meal in a cafe in Gardner. On our return we saw Mountain Bighorn Sheep on the mountain right next to the road. During the day we would see two more herds of these interesting mammals. It is amazing how they cling to the narrow ledges of some rather steep cliffs.



We drove out to the Lamar Valley and thoroughly enjoyed the scenery. On the way we sighted a pair of sandhill cranes with two fuzzy young as well as a great assortment of ducks and a pair of Wilson's phalaropes, a life bird for me. The bull elk are growing their antlers at the rate of 1/2" - 5/8" daily and we passed several right along the road.



The Lamar valley never disappoints us. Bison were in abundance and scattered amongst them were pronghorn antelope and elk. We stopped to watch two black bear sows, each with a cub. Although they were seveeral hundred yards away, they entertained us for quite a while. We drove out past the Yellowstone Association and foud four wolves near a carcass along the Lamar River. Wolves will gorge themselves, eating over 20 pounds at a time. Apparently they had just finished eating and were just working their way slowly up to the tree line to sleep off their diner. Ravens and magpies were enjoying the left-overs. About half the elk that wolves kill are confiscated by grizzly bears and once a bear claims the carcass, nothig else is allowed near until the bear is done.



On our way home, Sandi noticed something in the distance near the Lamar River and we stopped in time to see it get into the river and cross it. Even with only the head visable above the water, we could easily identify it as a large bear. I came up the bank and ran around and eventually started toward us. This was an adult Grizzly bear and it's shoulder hump, dished face and ears were easily seen. It was several hundred yards away and we watched as it ran around and occasionally stopped to scrounge up something to eat. A crowd soon gathered and the large bear continued to move closer. It stopped about 100 yards away and rooted around for food then suddenly started running straight towards us sending everyone scrambling to their cars. After passing in front of us and crossing the road between cars that were lined up watching, it worked its way away from the crow.. What an experience!

Monday, June 08, 2009

The Yellowstone Rangers

We flew back to Salt Lake City, picked up our RV which was at the Freightliner truck facility for an oil change, and moved up to the Hill Air Force Base FamCamp near Ogden, a few miles north of Salt Lake City. We took a day trip to Antelope Island in the Great Salt Lake to see the bison, antelope, mule deer, and assorted birds. I picked up a couple additional life birds including the lazuli bunting and the California Gull which is the Utah state bird and is well know for breaking the plague of locusts the Mormon’s experienced when they first settled in the Salt Lake City. Our next day’s travel took us back into Salt Lake City where we toured the Church of Jesus Christ of the Later Day Saints, Mormon, complex. The Temple is an interesting piece of architecture and is off limits for non-church members but the rest of the complex is available. Two early 20ish female missionaries took us around, providing some Mormon history, personal testimony, and showed us some of the Mormon outreach and humanitarian projects. From there we went to do some genealogical research. The genealogy facility is impressive but our limited time proved insufficient to enable us to make any major discoveries.

The Tabernacle Choir practices on Thursday evenings and most of the practice is open to the public. We took advantage in the opportunity and got to hear the world famous choir and the 11,000+ pipe organ. The Sunday service where the radio program is broadcast from is also open to the public and we have placed that on our list of to do things for our next time through Salt Lake City.

We just happended to find out about a 140th anniversary of the Golden Spike Ceremony at Pronimatory Point near Salt Lake City where the Union Pacific and Central Pacific Railroads met completing the building of the trans continental railroad. We were quite impressed and moved by the significance of the event.





An easy three hour drive took us to the Lava Hot Springs in Idaho. Run by the state of Idaho, these commercial hot springs are very nice. There were about 5 different pools with temperatures ranging from about 102 degrees to 110 degrees. We started at the cooler pools and ended up in the hottest. These pools are open year round and the photos in the brochure show bathers in the pools with snow covering everything around the pools. That would be a treat. We will probably stop back here sometime and maybe we will be fortunate to catch some snow.

One day at the hot springs was enough to cleanse our systems and we continued another three hours to Craters of the Moon National Monument. This is a weird place to say the least. Lava flows from over 15000 years ago to as recent as 2000 years ago have created a landscape that defies description. The lunar landing astronauts trained here for a reason although the moon’s surface is pocked from meteor impacts, not from lava. Cinder cones and spatter cones dot the 50mile by 30 mile park. Displays and movies in the visitor center describe the various types of flows and lavas. Nether Sandi or I have had much experience with volcanoes or lave so we were like to kids in a new and exciting learning environment. Though the lava in this park is predominantly basaltic, we are still able to relate some with our Yellowstone experiences where much of the lava is rhyolite. Interestingly enough the calderas that form a smile like arc through Idaho along the Snake River all occurred when the continental land mass moved over the hotspot located now where Yellowstone is.

Sandi and I drove the seven mile loop road and climbed to the top of Inferno Mountain which is a relatively recent cinder cone, a volcano that was active only 2000 years ago. After hiking through one of the lava tubes, we figured we had experienced Craters of the Moon and decided to continue towards Yellowstone.

A short two hour drive brought us to Rigby, Idaho, just north of Idaho Falls. Our purpose here was two-fold: 1) Meet with the technician who set up our internet satellite system several years ago and 2) Tour the Titanic Artifacts exhibit. The exhibit was interesting. The tickets we purchased were boarding passes and each of us had a pass with information about an original Titanic traveler. At the end we were able to check our names with a list of all passengers and found out that neither of us completed the voyage although Sandi’s traveler had a wife and two small children who were rescued.

The technician solved my internet problem by replacing a slightly warped dish and then allowed us to remain in his driveway for the evening. His wife’s parents, the Fenstermachers, trace their ancestors to Berks and Lehigh Counties in PA and were interested in meeting us so they came to the RV for a visit. Mrs. Fenstermacher is a genealogist for the Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter Day Saints (Mormons) and offered help when I needed it. We had a great visit.

We made it to Yellowstone National Park, arriving just a couple days before our training. Our season got off to an exciting start when we fortuned to get to see a small pack of three wolves harass and then kill a wounded elk. The head wolf researcher in Yellowstone has only witnessed ten kills so we felt extremely fortunate to have been able to watch this somewhat gruesome but very natural cycling of energy in the food chain. Our pre-season training on the resources was exceptional with great presentations on wolves, history, and geology.

Finally in the park ranger uniform, I am fulfilling a life long desire. I am a park ranger and am loving it. Sandi is back on the job as a volunteer at the Madison Visitor Center. Two of Sandi’s days off coincide with mine but she gets an additional day or two off every week. It has been a while since either of us has put in 8 hour days and sleeping comes easy nearly every night.

Time off for me has been devoted almost entirely to preparing the minimum of seven programs that I am scheduled to present. As I get closer to completion on these preps, I can finally get out to cast a fly in nearby trout streams. Sandi has been catching up on some of her sewing and together we have been visiting and touring other visitor centers around the park. Yesterday we hiked the Lake Overlook trail near Grant Village. The two-mile moderately strenuous hike took us through prime bear country but all we saw was some bear scat and a few elk including one spotted new-born.

Yellowstone is still the wonderland we experienced two years ago and our experiences this year have been every-bit as enjoyable and exciting as those we had in the past. My duties include far more than just doing the programs for the Junior Rangers as well as adults but the gratification I get from helping youngster make a connection with this park is ample compensation and outweighs the drudgery of selling entrance permits and occasionally manning a road barrier. So far this season at Yellowstone appears to be heading in the right direction.

Saturday, June 06, 2009

Vegas and points north

Vegas to Salt Lake City

Las Vegas was great and we look forward to when we will get to return again. That may be years from now. We drove the short way from Vegas to Zion National Park in Utah. The weather was still a little cool for us but we needed to work our way toward Yellowstone National Park. We had hoped to stay several days at Zion but all campground sites were full and we could only find a campground with a couple nites open. We made the best of it by visiting the visitor center and then on the full day, we put our bikes on the tram and rode the tram to the end of the road. A small hike toward the Narrows took us through some awsome scenery. Cliffs reaches skyward and the entire place has a spiritual feel about it. It was a spiritual place for the Paiute Indians but the Mormons and Methodist gave the towering cliffs and monuments their names. Called Little Zion by the Mormons because of the cathedral-like formations which the Methodists later named Angels Landing, The three Patriarchs, and the Great White Throne. After our hike we mounted our bikes for the 6.5 mile, nearly all down-hill coast back to the visitor center. The sun reflecting off the canyon walls created some warmth despite the occassional snow flurry.

From Zion we headed further north to Bryce Canyon. The RV Park we stayed at was a few feet below 8000’ feet and there was still snow in places. Hookups were limited to only electricity because of the still frozen ground. We parked amongst the ponderosa pines a few miles from the park entrance and made several daily trips into the park. On one day we drove the scenic drive through the park, stopping to look at each scenic look-out. The natural landscapes and stone sculptures defy description. A before-sunrise trip to the overlook at the main ampetheater proved well worth the time. Hot coffee in our thermos provided some comfort in the below freezing temperatures but seeing the hoodoos illuminate with the early morning sun’s warm reflecting light also took some of the edge off the cold. Seeing a hiking trail meandering through the natural sculpture garden a mile below the canyon rim was too much of an attraction and I donned my hiking gear and followed the trail down into the canyon, around the goblin-like hoodoos, and back to the top. With the daytime temperatures getting into the 60s, hiking was pleasant despite the elevation change from top to bottom and back up again.

After Bryce we headed further north and stopped at the Mystic Hot Springs for a soaking in the natural springs near Monroe Utah. Travertine terraces, the results of calcium precipitating from the 100+ degree water nearly consume the large tubs nestled into the hill above the campground.

Although we had planned to fly East to visit our kids, grandkids and my parents, a family funeral mandated altering our plans to fly east several days early. Despite the somberness of the occasion, we were ably to continue our trip as originally planned. In Maryland we were able to take Marisa and Sam to the National Zoo to see the Pandas and on the next day, with Bill, our son and their Dad along we rode the DC subway into town and enjoyed our favorite Smithsonian Museum, The Museum of Natural History. The Hope Diamond and other gems, and the collection of mammal skeletons interested the youngsters some but the insect exhibits seemed to provide the most entertainment. The butterfly house with a kaleidoscope-like display of multi-colored butterflies was the highlight. Armed with a display card showing different butterflies, Marisa led the way to finding and identifying the brilliant colored specimens that were everywhere. We passed through an airlock to enter the room and then again through another when we left where were closely inspected to make sure that no “hitchhiking” butterflies were catching a ride on our backs. The visit was way too short but we made the most of the short time we had and are already looking forward to our next trip back to Maryland.

We headed up to Pennsylvania for a few days with my parents. We had a great visit and one day my Brother Ken and his wife Kathy were able to joins us for diner. Not often the entire family gets together. It was special.

We left Pa and flew down to Alabama for a short visit with our Daughter and her family. The big event was to go see a theater production of “Alice in Wonderland- the biggest tea party.” Alice is our granddaughter’s idol, so to watch and participate in the somewhat interactive production was a real treat. Braelyn, to celebrate her up-coming third birthday, even got to go on stage with Alice. Despite the presence of all the exciting characters including the Rabbit who was always late, the March Hare, the Doormouse, and the Queen of Hearts, Braelyn just hugged her idol.

In all our visits and activities the grandkids seemed to find things they enjoyed but Sandi and I really had the best time just watching them.